Changing the rear suspension gaiter is fairly straight forward, but can be confusing if you haven’t done it before.
Before changing a rear gaiter, does your suspension go “crack” when it stands up in the mornings? If so and it’s from the same side as the busted gaiter, you should replace the pushrod and ball cup assembly too. This will stop the noise and prevent the pushrod or cup breaking on the road.
To change a rear gaiter, jack up the rear of the car and support on axle stands.
- Remove the wing and wheel on the offending side.
- Put the suspension height lever in the lowest setting to depressurize the rear suspension.
- Put a bowl or similar under the gaiter to catch any fluid spilled when it is removed.
- Undo the clip around the large end. There should be a rubber ring between the clip and the gaiter.
- Clean as much dirt away from this end of the gaiter / suspension cylinder as possible.
- There is a U shaped wire clip securing the pushrod and ball cup assembly to the suspension arm. The end that pokes through the suspension arm should be bent over to prevent it coming out. You need to straighten this out then remove the clip.
- Sometimes it is rusted into the suspension arm, in which case you might be able to bend the clip enough to disengage it from the push rod, enabling the pushrod and gaiter to be removed, leaving the ball cup attached to the arm.
- Now lift the suspension arm to push the piston back into the suspension cylinder. Release the arm and the lower end of the pushrod / ball cup assembly should now be free of the arm.
- Disconnect the nylon return pipe from the top of the gaiter.
- Prise the gaiter off the suspension cylinder and remove the gaiter / pushrod assembly from the car.
- Remove the ball cup assembly from the end of the pushrod. If the rubber dust cover on this is perished, these should be changed.
- Take a careful look at how and where the gaiter is attached to the pushrod, as it will need to go back the same way.
- Turn the gaiter inside out to access the clamp. Remove the clamp and the gaiter from the pushrod.
- There should be some cloth or cloth tape wrapped around the gaiter under the clamp. This is usually missing these days, but recover it if it is there.
- Clean up the pushrod.
- Turn the new gaiter inside out.
- Lubricate the pushrod with a little WD40 or similar and push the gaiter onto it small end first, until it is over the grooves around the pushrod, where the old gaiter was.
- Check the rotational alignment of the gaiter. The port for the nylon return should be at 90 degrees to the hole in the pushrod that the wire clip goes through.
- Wrap the cloth strip around the gaiter, or if it was missing, use cloth tape or a strip of rag.
- Clamp the small end of the gaiter to the pushrod. You should use Ligarex for this but make sure there are no sharp edges left on the buckle that may wear through the gaiter when it is pulled over.
- Pull the gaiter back over so that is the right way out.
- Put a blob of grease into the ball cup and refit it to the end of the pushrod.
- Refit the assembly to the car.
- It can help to put the U shaped wire clip back in before putting the large end of the gaiter onto the suspension cylinder, as this will hold the gaiter and pushrod in the right rotational position.
The rest is pretty much the reverse of the removal, as they say.
Hopefully we’ll be able to add some pictures to this at some point in time.
There has been a bit of discussion lately about shuddery brakes developing on D Model Citroens. This is not an uncommon problem and can be caused by a variety of things; Pad quality, disc quality and / or run-out, contamination, stuck calliper piston, bent gearbox output flange etc.
We think that the most common cause is incorrect fitting. The discs on these cars cannot just be fitted and done like most cars, the correct procedure MUST be followed to ensure a long and trouble free disc life. Obviously the above items should also be checked too.
Rather than me spell out the procedure, the original factory version (2 pages) is here: Brake disc fitting
To buy new discs, click here.
In the 1970’s French company S.E.V. Marchal brought out a new type of ignition with the traditional points built into a cassette. This made removal and fitting must faster and easier, but you could no longer set the points gap with a feeler gauge. A dwell meter must be used instead. Most garages would have had a dwell meter for accurate setting of standard points so this would not have been a problem, however for the DIY owner used to setting points with a feeler gauge (or “eyecrometer”) it posed a problem. From the enquiries we’ve getting, it seems this still poses a problem, even for professional garages. Many garages now do not even have staff who know how a traditional points based ignition system works, let alone have equipment for checking and setting the system. And it’s not really surprising seeing as most vehicle manufacturers had changed over to electronic ignition systems by the early 1980’s.
Just as modern vehicle technology has rendered most DIY vehicle maintenance obsolete or impossible on today’s cars, the modern garage can no longer properly cater for vehicles made before 1980. This is where specialist garages like us are invaluable. We know how your car works and how to repair / adjust and service it using the correct parts and grades of oil. We can also help DIY owners and modern garages with information about maintaining the older vehicle, the information sheet below on how to set cassette points being case in point, if you’ll pardon the pun.
Instruction sheet : SEV Cassette points
Have you seen our oil filter set and wondered where all the bits go?
The set consists of the oil filter, 2 x O rings, the cover plate gasket, copper washer for the filter bolt and a sealing washer for the oil drain plug.
Here is a video showing where all the bits go, apart from the drain plug washer which is pretty obvious!
Below is the workshop manual page from the end of the video for your reference.
We’ve been fitting and selling quite a few steering wheel binding tapes recently, so I’ve put together a fitting guide.
These binding tapes are available in both black and ivory colours to suit Citroen D Models until 1972, Ami 6 and Ami 8 until January 1973.
Click on the link below for the pdf fitting guide.
It’s been a while since our last blog post.
We’ll try and give it a bit more time in 2016 … promise.
Recently a pre-1960 vehicle came in, which was not required to have an MOT. It wouldn’t have passed one, and we gave the owner a list of things that needed rectifying with the following notification:
“Please note that this vehicle is not roadworthy and should not be used on the road until remedial work is carried out.”
The wonders of modern spellchecking on our invoicing system took exception to the word “roadworthy” and thought it had a better alternative – see the picture above.
Needless to say it’s been added to the dictionary now.
Brand new road wheels for all Citroen D Models (DS and ID) made after September 1965 are now available, and have just arrived in stock today.
These are the wider 5.5J wheels with square centre hole, as originally fitted to all models after 1970. The rims are welded to the centres, not riveted like the originals and this means you can run tubeless tyres more reliably. They are painted in the right grey colour inside and out.
No more trying to make your rusted and pitted wheels look good again, sell them to the scrap man and buy some shiny new ones!
We will have a limited number of these available to buy at the D Rally (Little Horwood MK17 0PF Recreation ground behind Shoulder of Mutton Pub – June 12-14 2015) but to secure yours BUY NOW for delivery, or collection at the rally. We’ll also most likely have these available already fitted with new Retro Tyres so you can buy, fit and drive away on them.